Friday, March 27, 2015

Forming the Leading Edges

To form the leading edges, the instructions say to get a 2x8 and a couple 2x2s, attaching the 2x2s to the 2x8 with about an inch-and-a-quarter between them (enough for the pipe to fit between). Then just lay the aluminum across the jig and press the pipe down between the 2x2s to form the leading edge. It says you'll need to back the pipe with a 2x4 to keep it from flexing. The pipe is so massive, I couldn't believe it would flex. Well, I had a thing or two to learn. Using the captions for the photos below, I'll describe the process and how I ended up making the leading edges (Hint: not at all how the instructions said to do it!).


My original leading-edge-forming jig, according to the instructions.


1 1/4" pipe. It has an inside diameter of 1". Buy a ten-footer.


Cutting the sheets to size. I ordered them 18" wide, but cut off another 1/2". I also cut them down close to their final length. You need extra length for attaching the wing tip bow.


If you score the aluminum several times with a razor blade, you can just bend it back and forth a couple times, and it breaks off, leaving a nice, clean edge.


It was very easy to bend this small test piece. Unfortunately, when trying to bend the entire sheet, I discovered that would be pretty much impossible. I banged on the pipe with a small sledge hammer, and even stood on it. It wouldn't budge. I understand now why the instructions said to use a 2x4 to back the pipe so it didn't bend. When I clamped the ends, it definitely flexed, despite it's being a pretty beefy pipe.


Put a mark on your test piece right at the leading edge (note the red line on this piece of metal). Use this piece to mark the appropriate location at both ends of your final piece so you know where to line up the pipe that you clamp down over the aluminum sheet. It's not quite symmetric due to the different curvature on the top and bottom of the nose ribs, so you want the bend to be in a pretty specific location on the sheet. You can't just clamp the pipe right down the middle of your aluminum edge sheet.


So, I decided to try something else. After mulling over it for a couple days, it occurred to me to clamp the pipe over the metal, then move the 2xs in from the sides. I was going to buy more wood, but then decided I would just  clamp the pipe directly to my work bench and use the 2x8 that I was using as a base and the 2x4 that I had bought to back the pipe to squeeze in from the sides.


My first attempt at a new method of bending the leading edge material.


You can't see it in this photo, but the 2x2s were a little too flexible and didn't squeeze the metal all the way in out in the middle.


I had to keep taking bites until full squeezage was achieved. After reaching the limits of my clamps, I would hold things together with a second clamp, then unscrew the main clamp, slide the other end in tight, then screw this end down again. It took probably three or four bites.


My ultimate solution. Clamp the pipe over the aluminum directly to the work bench. Then use the 2x8 and 2x4 to squeeze in from the sides. I would recommend buying a 1" pipe ten feet long, and two 2x6s eight feet long. That should be all you need to bend your leading edges, other than several good clamps.






You can see that I'm using different clamps now. My pipe clamps are quite long and therefore unwieldy.


The end result (almost).


After I had the clamps squeezed tight against the lumber (and, therefore, pipe), I went down the length of the aluminum, up and down both sides, pushing in with my hand to get a little tighter bend in the aluminum. I didn't need to push too hard, but got the optimum bend, I think.






Cool!!!

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